Sucking Grapes

AGE AIN’T NOTHING BUT A NUMBER
BALESTRI VALDA - CASTELCERINO SOAVE

While doing research in the Soave region, I visited several small family owned estates, which in the past used to sell their grapes to the cantina sociale, until a new generation, educated in viticulture and winemaking, took over the reins, and decided to vinify the fruit and bottle it themselves.
More often than not, all ingredients for the production of great wine at these small estates appear to be in place: vineyards in the Soave Classico hills on slopes of volcanic soils, and so few hectares, that almost all work can be executed by the family members themselves. In general, most of the investments are absorbed by new cellar equipment, consisting, without exception, of stainless steel temperature controlled vats, pneumatic presses and barriques. (more…)

GAMBERO ROSSO’S HIT LIST SHOWS LITTLE SURPRISES

The eagerly awaited Tre Bicchieri awards  have been published, and although (or because) it is still the most important reference work for Italian wine, it is not free of controversy. At the same time two other works competing on the same awards market have also published their favourites. The highest accolade a wine can get in „Duemilla Vini“, the official handbook of the Associazione Italiana Sommelier (AIS), is „Cinque Grappoli“, or 5 grape bunches. This scoring system, at least in theory, allows for greater flexibility  than Gambero Rosso’s rigid 3 glasses awards or Veronelli’s „Tre Stelle“, three stars. All three launch their printed version around the 29th of October during a tasting featuring all or a selection of the winning wines. (more…)

THE WINES OF MADONNA DELLE VITTORIE SHOW THAT THE SPINNING CONE MAY NOT BE NEEDED AFTER ALL

In the light of possible stricter alcohol legislation (something that is highly likely after the recently introduced smoking ban), the UK wine trade has become somewhat nervous and is busy thinking of concepts and marketing ideas to show its willingness to self regulate. The latest effort however, seems to me a shot in the foot: the introduction of lower alcohol wines as a less harmful drink. This “idea” originates from the British supermarkets, which hate to see total sale and value decrease, and try to stimulate the customer to drink not in moderation, but to drink as much as ever, albeit alcoholic beverages with a lower alcohol volume. (more…)

DE BARTOLI’S EXPERIMENTS WITH GRILLO SHOWS THIS GRAPE’S UNLEASHED POTENTIAL

After my expedition to the Etna, I have arrived in Palermo. This city, which after WOII has fallen prey to neglect and ignorance, seemed to have revived since my last visit, now some years ago. Most visible change is that its streets are less dirty, and quite a few buildings are hiding behind scaffolding: the first encouraging signs, that Palermo at last is making an effort to restore its splendid past. To be honest: the main axis of the city, Via Maqueda, Via Roma, and Via della Liberta (the latter being a 19th century extension of Via Maqueda), have always been to some extend presentable, but as soon as you turn into the old streets, home of the famous markets Vucciria, La Cala and Capo, you find yourself in a labyrinth of decay and dirt. (more…)