Sucking Grapes

BUT BARONE DI VILLAGRANDE HAS BEEN AROUND THE BLOCK SINCE 1727

I have travelled to Sicily for a couple of days, adding more carbon to my foot print as well as my conscience, to investigate if the Etna DOC, which currently has received quite a lot of attention in the Italian wine media, is living up to the expectations. Sicily on its own is responsible for a large chunk of Europe’s wine production (currently there are 125,000ha under vine, compared to the whole of Australia of about150,000 ha, although Bordeaux adds also considerably to the Europe surplus with 124,000ha, with roughly only a tenth of that surface owned by the few famous Chateaux that sell their wines effortlessly), most of which ends up in anonymous blends or is sold off in bulk, its quality wine production still disappointingly lagging behind the Italian average. (more…)

AND THE FIRST REPORTS ON THE 2007 GROWING SEASON

The 2006 vintage in Chianti Classico is considered as a very great vintage indeed, rivalling 1999 and 2001. Michael Schmelzer, who tends his vineyards following biodynamic principles, gives some in depth information on the growing season of that year, while Sebastiano Capponi sent me the first reports on the 2007 growing cycle from Greve in Chianti. Although the Chianti Classico Consortium doesn’t seem to be alarmed by the phenomenom of climate change, especially Sebastiano’s obervations paint quite a different picture, and may show that viticulture appears to be the barometer of climatic change, to quote Jancis Robinson. (more…)

THE WINES OF DAMA DEL ROVERE

While exploring the hills of Soave, an acquaintance of mine suggested I should pay a visit to Dama del Rovere, a tiny estate tucked away high up in the Lessini hills, bordering those of Soave, where sparkling wine of the local Durello grape is produced. Although it is already complicated enough to try and sell premium Soave and defend the higher price tag that comes with it, even thinking of marketing a sparkling wine called “Lessini Durello” would be reckless. It is a dilemma many suppliers and Sommeliers come across: you taste a wine that really excites you, and at the same time you realise that it will never be a financial success. (more…)

AND A SUNTAN COMES WITH IT TOO

Here is a thought: warm climates are more suitable for viticulture then moderate ones as there is less humidity and therefore less or no need for combating rot and diseases with chemicals. I am joking of course, but certainly this cheeky thought crossed my mind while standing in the vineyards at Monte Bernardi, as Michael had talked me into helping picking the fruit for the 2007 vintage. Before I actually find myself in the vineyards, it has taken several phone calls to confirm my presence. Michael has been waiting for the Sangiovese to reach perfect ripeness, which had almost set in. Rain, however, would have made it necessary to postpone the picking, as the plants would have soaked up all the water, and thus diluting the fruit. It is  therefore that I am waiting for the final “all clear”. (more…)

Conte Sebastiano Capponi of Villa Calcinaia explains the concept of “Podere”

While on my way out of Chianti Classico back to my home in Padua I visited Conte Sebastiano Capponi of Villa Calcinaia in Greve in Chianti. I had met Sebastiano previously in London, and although I had planned on paying him a visit, he was first to contact me via email, saying he had heard of my presence in the area. Of course I was intrigued how he knew. It turned out that he had visited the Consortium of Chianti Classico and had seen my business card lying on Silvia Fiorentini’s desk. Bad news travels fast. (more…)

Susanne Janotka’s wine tastings cater for wine novices and connaisseurs alike

It is amazing, who you can come across in the vineyards while picking grapes. A quite international crowd flocks Tuscany every summer and some stay for longer than just the harvest. Suzanne Janotka, who I met through the grape vine, is originally from Vienna, and although still clinging to a car with Austrian number plates, has chosen Panzano as her home for the last seven years. She is a highly practical person, with a great eye for detail and, although not trained officially in viticulture and vinification, shows an enormous knowledge of practices in the vineyard and cellar, obtained by the years she spent in the field as well as in the winery of several Chianti Classico estates. (more…)

PANZANO’S OWN WINE FAIR SHOWS (ALMOST ) ALL MOVERS AND SHAKERS

While visiting Michael Schmelzer at the Monte Bernardi estate last Thursday, he told me that in Panzano a small annual wine fair was taking place, representing the Who is Who of winemaking around this town. The fair, where the estates show their wines, is held in Panzano’s main square, and packed with German and American tourists when I arrive. (more…)

A visit to the Consorzio del Marchio Storico Chianti Classico

The irony of Chianti Classico, at least for me, is that, although it has many outstanding estates and a flagship grape variety, Sangiovese, it is still judged on the lowest quality of its vinous output. Compare this to Bordeaux: only a handful of Chateaux produce the most demanded of wines worldwide, while the very bulk of Bordeaux is produced on the basic level of Bordeaux Superieur and Entre-Deux-Mers, and really nothing to write home about. For me, in this respect, there is no difference between the two regions, except for the historic top-down marketing of Bordeaux wines, and the not less historic, if much more recent, “down-top” marketing of Chianti Classico. (more…)